Fish Rising On Clark Fork River

What Is Mending In Fly Fishing

What Is Mending In Fly Fishing

Fish Rising On Clark Fork River

What is mending in fly fishing and what does mending fly line do? Mending in fly fishing means manipulating your fly line and leader to enhance or re-establish a drag free drift. Since almost all insect imitations require drag free drift, whether on the surface or sub-surface, mending in fly fishing is a critical skill.

There are many ways to mend in fly fishing. The most common is allowing the fly or indicator to land on the water. When you see the fly or indicator start to drag (drag being defined as any movement counter to the current), use the rod to adjust the line on the water, removing drag.

There are no hard and fast rules for mending fly line. Depending on how drag occurs, you may need to mend upstream, downstream, or add slack. When first learning to mend, sometimes you’ll mend the fly line, and drag stops. That’s what you want. Or you mend the line, and drag is accelerated. That’s not what you want. If you’ve mended incorrectly, on the next cast, do the opposite, see how that works.

One of the secrets to mending your fly line is watch where the line is being most affected by the current. Often, a single faster or slower seam (small section of current in a river) creates the drag problem. It’s a 50/50 chance that mending with your feet will help. Taking a couple steps up or down stream, or moving forward can allow the next cast to miss the tricky seam. While not a manipulation of the line, it works.

When fishing a smaller dry fly, mending is more difficult. The goal when mending is mend TO the fly, not through the fly. Much easier said than done. Most times, when mending the line, the fly or indicator moves as well. This isn’t important with indicators. They’re designed to float, and even if your mend drags it beneath the surface, the indicator quickly pops back to the surface. The same with the most popular flies for fishing dry/dropper. Flies like the Chubby Chernobyl, Morrish Hopper and other foam flies return to the surface as well.

This isn’t true for smaller dry flies. Once they’re swamped, they don’t return to the surface. Luckily, there’s another type of mending in fly fishing- aerial mending.

Aerial mends are made with the fly line still in the air. Instead of waiting for the line to land before manipulation, the caster manipulates the line while airborne. The most common aerial mend is the Reach Cast. As the cast is delivered, the angler moves the rod tip across their body. When the fly lands, the line is better placed for extending drag free drift.

Other examples of aerial mending are the Steeple Cast and S Cast. The Steeple Cast is thrown high in the air, falling with slack in the line, providing a drag free drift. The S Cast uses side to side rod tip movement to create S’s in the line as it lands. The S Cast and Steeple Cast introduce slack to prolong drag free drift in water with many varying currents.

No aerial mend is quickly mastered. Your first S Cast probably lands about 10 feet in front of you, with S’s that are 15 feet wide. Practice, practice, practice.

Mending in fly fishing is the most critical skill an angler can have. You can work around bad casting, poor positioning and other factors, but without a drag free drift, you might as well be playing golf. The bumper sticker, “Slack Is Evil”, is wrong. While uncontrolled slack lacks elegance, controlled slack is the key to success.

If you want to learn more about mending, there are multiple click points above to find more details on this necessary skill. We’ve also included a link to our beginner fly fishing resource at the bottom of this page.

Want to learn more about fly fishing for beginners? Check out the link below for a Complete Guide To Beginner Fly Fishing

Blackfoot River Montana Salmonfly Hatch

What is the best fly rod length

It’s a thorny question, one that brings out the opinion of anyone asked. When you buy a fly rod, you make a choice. And with the cost of fly rods, it must be a well thought out choice. When deciding on the best fly rod length, here are the things to think about.

The Physics Of Rod Length

The only thing about rod length that can’t change is physics. From a physics standpoint, longer rods mend better and hold more energy- allowing longer casts. Shorter rods fight fish better. Those two statements can’t be refuted. Mending and fish fighting are easy to understand, distance a bit more so.

A longer rod (in the fly fishing industry, that’s over 9’) generates more energy, and casts further. However, that energy needs to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is you. Think about spey rods. They can be 16’ long, and a good spey caster throws 140 feet plus. You need two hands/arms to generate the power to make a rod that long work. Try casting a spey rod with one hand, and if you do, don’t sprain anything. The energy required and the swing weight will tear your wrist up. When we say swing weight, we mean the energy required to maintain position while the front or back cast extends to load the rod.

This holds true for all fly casting- all rod lengths and line weights. A 10’ 9 weight will cast further than a 9’ 9wt, which casts further than an 8’ 9wt. However, energy generation and swing weight multiplies with length, making a 10’ 9wt a beast to cast. Swing weight and energy generation lessen as the line weight lessens, but is still present. All rods need energy and have a swing weight- it gets more pronounced the longer the rod

Manufacturing Fly Rods

Manufacturers tell you a 9’ rod is the best fly rod length. This is based on two premises. Prior to graphite, cane and fiberglass rod makers knew the physics, but the materials made length difficult to achieve. With graphite, longer rods were now a better option. However, ferruling and blank rolling became issues.

In graphite’s infancy, ferrules were terrible. They created flat spots in the action, so rods were two pieces to minimize that affect. A 10 foot rod needed two 5’ pieces, and early graphite rolling machines couldn’t handle that length. The best they could roll consistently were 4.5 foot lengths. You didn’t want crappy ferrules or a curved blank, so manufacturing settled on 9 feet.

The other factor is development. Manufacturers have been working with 9’ rods for 50 years. You can be sure they have that taper DOWN. Spend 50 years refining anything, and it gets pretty darn good. Even with exponentially better ferrules and rolling machines, the tapers developed by the manufacturers still focus on 9’ feet, where the most R&D work has been done.

How Usage Affects Fly Rod Length

But the real measure of best fly rod length is usage. How will the rod be used, where will the rod be used. What do you NEED from your fly rod. Let’s look at this from a trout fishing perspective.

Well, it doesn’t make much sense to use an 11’ rod on a stream 8 feet wide. That’s problematic from the word go. Conversely, it doesn’t make much sense to use 7’ rod on a river 100 yards wide. Neither rod works well in those situations

Small waters fish better with a shorter rod, it’s as simple as that. They’re lighter in hand, more accurate and less fatiguing. When a long cast is 35 feet, a 7’ rod will make the required mends and other presentations. Small waters, for the most part, have smaller fish, and you can throw small streamers with a shorter rod. You can Euronymph with a short rod on small water- not as well as with a longer rod, but it can be done.

Yes, short rods are more accurate. Imagine pressing a door bell. It’s easy with a pencil, more difficult with a 36 inch dowel, harder yet with a 7’ stick and even more so with a 10’ stick. Short equals accurate.

In our minds, the best fly rod length comes down to distance and mending. We have big rivers in Missoula, which require both. We throw big streamers, dry/droppers and massive double nymph rigs, sometimes with lead.

When casting some of that junk, one thing a long rod does that few think of is keeping the fly away from your nose! Just sayin’. . .

How To Choose The Best Fly Rod Length

If we had to make a bold statement, if you fish water 25’ or wider, a 9’ rod or longer is the way to go. That comes with this caveat, in fertile land, where trees grow thick, a 25’ stream can have a covering canopy, or close to it. Short may be a better option in that environ. With that explained, if you fish water without a canopy, get a 9’ or longer rod, even if it’s 15 feet wide. If you can wade the smaller waters, you can use a longer rod. One of the best features of a river is no trees in it to foul up the back cast.

Wow, bet you thought it was going to be more complicated. Nope. Straight physics says a longer rod works better, except for fighting fish. And face it, we’re catching trout. While they get big, and 4-6 weights are considered light tackle fishing, trout are not tarpon or wahoo.  They fight, but with 5X coming in at 5 lb test, you can land trout comparatively quickly. The longer rod is not going to significantly fatigue most anglers when fighting trout, nor overly tire from casting a longer rod all day.

The longer rod mends better, adds distance, and fights the wind better. It’s simple math.  

However, another reason for short rods in fertile land. The longer the rod, the trickier it is to maneuver through the brush. We know a lot of long rodders who break the rod down to two pieces for easier maneuvering. The longer rod helps keep your fly out of the brush when back casting, but does put you closer to the trees. In our experience, there are less trees than bankside brush.

How long is too long for the best fly rod length? Tenkara rods can be13 feet long, but they weigh less and cast shorter distances. Distance equals energy expended. Tenkara rods have swing weight, and need to be maneuvered through brush, but on the whole aren’t fatiguing. A 13’ 5wt is a trout spey rod, with a handle configuration for both hands while casting.  

For those casting, not Euronymphing or Tenkara fishing, we consider 10’ to be as long as you want to go for single handed casting. Above that length, the rod gets unwieldly to handle, and exponentially more fatiguing as the line weight increases. You also lose accuracy, though the more you use a longer rod, the more accurate you become. For dries and smaller nymph rigs, you can also utilize the extra energy from a long rod by dropping down a line weight. We say a 10’ 4 will do everything a 9’ 5wt does, except cast larger streamers. This math holds true for any length/line weight comparison.

When you start thinking about 7 weights and higher, or using sink tips, a 9’ rod has proven to be the best tool for the job. 9’ rods have a manageable swing weight, and the shorter length applies more leverage for heavier/sunken fly lines during pickup. They don’t fight fish as well as a shorter rod, but since heavier lines are thrown longer distances, we accept the more strenuous fight for cast for distance.

When you think of the best fly rod length, think about the waters you fish most often. Factor in the physics of fly fishing, your comfort zone, what’s available from the manufacturer and what feels best in your hand. Don’t immediately discount a 10’ rod or a 7’ rod- both have their place on the water. But we say go longer whenever possible, because the benefits far outweigh the disadvantages.

Fly Fishing For Beginners

Fly Fishing For Beginners

Missoula Fly Fishing Guide Scott Stanko

You’ve decided to approach the water with a fly rod in your hand. We think it’s a good idea. But as you begin your research in fly fishing for beginners, it feels like there’s a lot of information out there, loaded with opinion that sometimes clouds a simple path to get started with the right fly fishing knowledge and setup for beginners. The Missoulian Angler believes in an uncomplicated, common-sense approach to beginning fly fishing, and we’re going to start with some common sense right now.

We’re located in the heart of the best fly fishing for trout in the world, the Rocky Mountains. We focus on trout, because that’s where we live. There are many paths to learning how to fly fish, and the path we take is starting fly fishing for trout. If you live on the East Coast, and your quarry is Striped Bass, know that some of the information you find here might not be applicable to your situation. And that’s important, because all fly fishing is local. If you plan to enjoy fly fishing, it’s going to take a bit of practice. If you believe fly fishing can only be done in trout streams, you’re going to limit the fun you can have with a fly rod.

The Missoulian Angler has been in business for 35 years, and the staff we employ has a combined experience of over 125 years fly fishing from freshwater to saltwater species, across the country and around the world. We view our job as education, helping anglers of all experience levels get better. We know how to clear out beginners fly fishing misconceptions, and get right to the heart of the matter. We know how to break fly fishing down into understandable blocks of information, allowing a beginning fly fisher to burrow down into what’s important as you get started fly fishing. 35 years of angler education gives the Missoulian Angler the foundation to simplify learning to fly fish. There’s more to the story, but as you start fly fishing, it’s easier to work with smaller blocks of info. Make a foundation, then build. We’re here to build that foundation with the small blocks of info found at the bottom of this page. With that said, let’s go to the movies . . . . . . .

The Good . . . .

We could tell you why we love fly fishing, but we won’t. You’ll discover that yourself. What we will say is it’s a lifetime sport- a challenge that never ends. The skill set is varied and interesting, with so many opportunities for discovery. Trout are found in the most beautiful places, and every time you get to the water is a privilege. You never HAVE to go fly fishing, you always GET to go fly fishing!

The Bad . . . .

A lot of people sugar coat this- we don’t. It takes a monetary commitment to start fly fishing. You need a rod, reel and line. Waders and boots(depending on the time of year you fish). Flies- more than you think. Boxes for flies. Polarized glasses. Leader, floatant, tippet, dangles and a way to carry it all. Maybe a net. A license. A stupid hat. Gas money. Cigars (OK, those aren’t really crucial, but you get the drift). It all adds up. If you’re beginning fly fishing from scratch- no one lending or giving you tackle, at a minimum you’ll probably spend $500 in your first 365 days of fly fishing. It could be more.

Don’t say you weren’t warned!

The Ugly . . . .

As Brad Pitt works his way along the river, Shadow Casting beautifully in the reflected, dappled light on a soft summer day, you can feel the joy of fly fishing in your soul.

When you’re waist deep in water on a cold March day, surrounded by rising fish ignoring your fly, rain trickling down the back of your neck, your cast failing from the deadly combination of excitement and wind, fingers freezing as you try to remember how to tie a Surgeon’s knot, you start thinking this was NOT in the brochure.

Fly fishing isn’t easy. No one tells you this, but you’ve chosen the most difficult method of catching fish. It takes diverse skills and dedication to get self sufficient on the water. Be ready for frustration, disappointment, missed meals, cranky spouses/SO’s and a whole host of things you never even thought of when you happily bought your fly rod. Fly fishing is going to take some time and effort. But this is the most rewarding way of fishing in our opinion.

Still with us? Start clicking the boxes below to learn everything you need to know to start fly fishing!

Fish Rising On Clark Fork River

Understanding Fly Fishing Drag

Understanding Fly Fishing Drag

Fish Rising On Clark Fork River

Fly fishing can be such a drag! If you’ve done a little fly fishing, you know why that’s funny. If fly fishing drag is new to you, let’s do some explaining. If you don’t understand drag, you can’t effectively fly fish.

When early man saw fish rising in a river, it didn’t take much intelligence to say, “That’s a locatable meal, and I can see what it’s eating.” Fly fishing evolved for a simple reason. It’s impossible to imitate an 8mm insect with a piece of shaped wood or metal. When fly fishing was invented, it was done by people who needed to eat. Success was bringing back a fish. It didn’t take smarts to see what the fish were eating. It took intelligence to figure out how to imitate and then deliver something as small as an imitation mayfly, caddis or stonefly.

What those three aquatic insects (and so many more) have in common is their inability to control their movement in moving water. This is in direct contrast to a minnow or crayfish, which have the power of directed locomotion in the water. A nymph (an immature aquatic insect) living on the bottom can only crawl. When a nymph is separated from the bottom, it can’t swim. It can only drift with the current. IT HAS NO CONTROL OF ITS DIRECTION. The same applies to an adult insect on the surface. When floating on the surface, it is moved by the current and with the current. IT HAS NO CONTROL OF ITS DIRECTION. Trout have been conditioned for millenia to eat insects moving exactly with the current.

THE SIDEWAYS BURGER

You’re sitting down to dinner, and it looks delicious. A burger, ripe and ready, juicy and tempting.

As you reach for your tasty burger, it starts to move sideways . . . . you can’t see why, you don’t know why, but it’s moving sideways across the table.

Are you going to eat that burger?

Probably not.

And why is that? Because it’s NOT doing what a burger should be doing! You’ve eaten burgers all your life- they don’t move sideways. Despite your hunger, you’re going to let that one pass by.

Welcome to the wonderful world of fly fishing! If you’re using an insect imitation, we can sum up fly fishing in one sentence.

MAKE YOUR FLY BEHAVE AS IF IT’S UNATTACHED

Simple as that. Except it’s not so simple, because your fly IS attached. It’s as complicated as that. Whenever your fly line or leader pulls the fly in any direction other than the direction of the current, it’s called drag. Think of drag as the sideways burger. You won’t eat the burger. The trout won’t eat your fly.

The river is full of currents. Big ones you can see. Little ones you can’t. Each one affects your line and leader. Each current pulls the line in a different direction. Every current affects your flies drift, and not in a positive way. How do you combat this? It’s the question every angler asked the first time they went fishing, the last time they went fishing, and every time in between. How do you eliminate drag on your fly?

Because 95 out of 100 times, when a fish refuses your fly, it’s dragging. Trout are obsessed by food. Trout are looking to eat all the time. To maintain their position in the river looking for food, they constantly expend energy. They need calories to replace that energy. They don’t look for excuses not to eat, they look for reasons to eat.

Think of it this way. In nature, who has more deadly issues, an ant or an elephant? The smaller you are, the more predators pursue you. The more you eat, the bigger you become, and fewer predators pursue you. That makes trout eating machines. They want to eat, they’re looking for reasons to eat and usually refuse only when your fly behaves unnaturally.

That’s a critical concept. When trout feel safe (not spooked) they forage all the time. Datus Proper wrote a book called What The Trout Said. The main concept states if you’re not catching fish, the trout say you’re doing something wrong. It’s that simple. You’ve spooked them, your fly is at the wrong depth, it’s dragging or it’s the wrong fly. The ultimate message- the trout aren’t eating your fly. They are NOT going to adjust their behavior to make you happy. You adjust your tactics to make them eat.

Drag stops fish from eating, and you need to eliminate it. Fly fishing drag is lessened with a proper cast and a balanced leader. Drag changes by moving from one spot to another when working the same fish. But most of the time drag control comes down to mending. Mending is the term we use to define any action designed to alter your fly’s action on the water. Mending can be done while casting, or after the fly is on the water. Both have positives and negatives, and both skill sets need to be learned.

When your fly isn’t floating with the current, it isn’t catching fish.

Additional Beginner Fly Fishing Resources

How To Cast A Fly Rod

How To Cast A Fly Rod

In this section we will breakdown how to cast a fly rod and the basic skills needed to hit the water. Click the boxes at the bottom of this page and start learning.

Fly casting is not an art, it’s a hand skill, like playing shortstop or knitting. Practice makes you better! And you need to practice. NOTHING, repeat NOTHING, positive happens on the water until you learn to cast a fly rod. It needs to be second nature. How can you focus on reading the water, drift and mending if all your focus is on casting.

The worst advice given to those who are learning how to cast a fly rod-

Don’t bend your wrist.”

Every beginner learning how to cast a fly rod hears this at some point, and it’s the worst advice a novice caster can receive. This is what “don’t bend your wrist” actually means. Properly stated, the tip of the fly rod, during the moment of acceleration as controlled by your wrist, should not travel beyond two set points, one at the 10:00 position and one at the 2:00 position on a clock face. Simply stated, a controlled wrist hinge defines the stopping points. Novices often over-hinge the wrist, causing the rod tip to pass beyond the 10 and 2 points. They’re told, for what should be a cast or two, don’t bend your wrist. This helps limit the rod tip’s movement to 10 and 2, no further and no less. It’s to give the novice a feel for where to stop the rod. But the mind latches onto the simple statement, don’t bend your wrist. And from there, it’s nothing but problems. You MUST bend your wrist while casting. If someone tells you not to bend your wrist when (when, not if) you practice, nod your head, thank them for their sage advice, and promptly ignore them.

Strangely, the worst place to learn how to cast a fly rod is on moving water, especially when just beginning. Moving water requires coordination between left and right hand, to cast and control the line and slack. Too many variables enter the equation on moving water. Find some open space on grass and go there. It takes all the pressure off, because few people catch fish in the grass. You focus on casting mechanics, not how to fish. Can’t fish without learning how to cast a fly rod, so walk before you run.

This is a critical concept in learning fly casting. The fly line must travel as fast on the back cast as it does on the front cast. This is opposite to every sport/activity you’ve ever participated in. Golf, tennis, baseball, spin fishing- the arm or stick goes back slowly and forward quickly. Not so in fly casting. The back cast must be as powerful, if not more powerful, than the front cast. In order to load the fly rod coming forward, the line must be airborne and in motion on the back cast. It takes time to adjust to the new concept of where to add power when fly casting.

Learning fly casting requires a bit of open space to cast. You need about 40 feet in front and behind you. The line travels in both directions, so you need as much space behind as you in front of you.

Start with the basics of fly casting. This is how you hold a fly rod. Reel down, thumb on top. Grip the rod loosely- you’re not trying to compress the cork! The thumb on top grip allows you to apply the most power to your cast.

Take a look at this infographic on setting up to practice fly casting on land. Orient yourself and choose a 10:00 o’clock point and a 2:00 o’clock point. Make sure the points are defined by objects (tree, sign, building window, goalpost) and not an imaginary number on a clock face. You need an actual object in your sight line to tell if the tip of the rod went past.

Now, click here if you’ve done some spinfishing. This information on casting gets you started based on your experience with a spinning rod. If you’ve never held a fishing rod in your hands, click here to see how to make a fly rod work

Click the boxes below to start learning how to cast a fly rod.

How To Use Spin Casting To Learn Fly casting

How to use Spin Casting to learn Fly casting

Spin Casting uses a weighted lure to pull a weightless line behind it, activated by a flexible lever.

Fly Casting uses a weighted line to pull a weightless lure behind it, activated by a flexible lever.

NOTICE THAT BOTH SPIN CASTING AND FLY CASTING ARE ACTIVATED BY A FLEXIBLE LEVER (the rod). Both casting methods need weight to apply energy to the lever (rod), causing the lever to bend. The techniques used in spin casting and fly casting for loading and releasing the energy provided by the weight IS EXACTLY THE SAME.

For the spincaster. Take 35-40 feet of fly line (No fly attached) and stretch it out behind you. Grasp the rod like this- thumb on top, reel down.

Hold the rod behind you parallel to the ground (this removes slack from the line). Choose a spot 60 feet away and 20 feet above your head. The roofline of a house, mid tree, or if you’re standing in the middle of a highway, an exit or directional sign (not recommended).

Use the EXACT SAME MOTION you would use to cast a lure, and throw the fly line towards the target. The flyline will extend all the way out. BOOM! You’re casting forward. That was easy.

Now it gets a bit weird. Imagine you’re standing in the same place, but have to cast in the opposite direction. However, for some reason, you CAN’T turn around and face the way you’re casting! How would you go about casting behind you if you couldn’t face that way.

Simple. You’d hold the rod tip forward (same direction you’re facing- opposite of the direction casting) parallel to the ground. Pick a target 60 feet away and 20 feet above your head, behind you. Going DIRECTLY over your thumb, you’d flick the rod tip back and the lure would fly toward the target. Try it with the fly line that you just threw forward. Same result, except it’s the fly line speeding towards the target. You don’t normally do this when spinfishing- you do it on EVERY cast when fly fishing.

You now have the mechanics for the cast and the back cast. Now you have to put them together.

You don’t want the line to land on the ground behind you, or the fly will get tangled in whatever’s there. The goal in fly casting is to start the forward cast at the moment the fly line is stretched out straight behind you but still travelling backwards. At that moment, you make the same forward cast as you did when you started.

This is a critical concept. Unlike any other sport/activity you’ve engaged in, when fly casting, the fly line MUST be sent backwards with as much, if not more, energy than when coming forward. Think about that for a moment. Baseball, hockey, football, golf- whenever you take your arm or stick backwards in preparation to come forward, it moves slower than the forward stroke. That’s a difficult habit to break.

The forward cast relies on the weight of the fly line acting against the rod as it starts forward. The same applies to the back cast- the back cast relies on the weight of the fly line acting against the rod as it start backwards. In order for the line to apply its weight to the rod, it must be airborne and in motion.

Your left hand is holding the slack fly line. (If you’re right handed. If you’re a Lefty, you’re going to have to translate these directions as you’ve had to translate directions all your life!) Think of your left hand as the brains of the operation. There are two forces acting on a fly rod. The weight of the extended line and the tight holding of the line in your left hand. Think of all the bad things that happen when you let go off the monofilament too soon or too late when spin casting. Same theory. The left hand is to fly casting what your index finger is to spin casting.

When you need to extend more line when fly casting, it’s necessary to release the line with the left hand at the opportune moment to allow the flex of the rod to pull more line out. This can be done on the front cast or the back cast, though when just starting, it’s easier to do on the front cast. The rod unloads, the line is traveling forward, and you release the line in the left hand. Allow a little line to extend, and then re-grip the line tightly in your left hand again. Send it backwards, and do the same thing again, until you have enough line out to cover the water you need to.

This takes practice! Hold the line between the left thumb and index finger. When you let go of the line, form a loop with your thumb and index finger with the line in the loop. Basically, you’re making a large guide with your fingers. When the line has extended far enough, simply close the loop around the line. Easier than it sounds, but it will take a bit of time to become second nature. Since you’re doing this on every cast, it comes faster than you think.

Additional Beginner Fly Fishing Resources