Rock Creek Montana
Fishing Report

Winter Nymphing

by MAngler

Unless you ski or snowboard, things get a lot slower in the winter. Slower traffic, slower getting kids out of the house, slow cooker meals- face it, things just don’t move as fast in the cold.

The same thing applies to winter nymph fishing for trout in the Blackfoot River, Rock Creek, Bitterroot River and Clark Fork River. Trout are cold blooded (Trout Biology), meaning their body temperature and metabolism fluctuates with the water temperature. The colder the water, the slower the trout’s metabolism. Trout in winter don’t need much food.

In the hot summer months, trout are stressed by warmer water. Cold water holds more oxygen than warm water, so along with more food, summer fish are also searching for oxygenated water, often found in and just below riffles. Summer trout can be lethargic due to decreased oxygen. Winter trout don’t have oxygen issues. The cold water holds lots of O2.

Let’s add a third biological piece of the puzzle. Very little photosynthesis goes on in the winter. Not much beyond midges are hatching, and the number of insects in the river is declining, though the biomass is going up. Summer trout are stationed in areas of maximum photosynthesis, because where there’s plant life, there’s insect life. The higher metabolism in summer drives trout to feed more, meaning trout are found where the most bugs are- shallow, fertile water with lots of plant and algae life. In winter, trout don’t need as much food, so they don’t need maximum bug populations.

These cold water factors combine to push trout into much different water than they’re found in warmer weather. The driving forces behind trout behavior remain consistent- food, oxygen, safety from predators- but are implemented in a very different way as the water temperatures fall.

Trout are always looking for places to find food, breath and be safe. As water temps fall, trout begin to move to places that summer fishermen aren’t familiar with. Look for trout in deeper, slower water, away from the faster seams, again counter to summer behavior. A higher metabolism needs a bigger supply of food, provided by the faster seam. With less food requirements, trout are found in slower, quieter water. Less food, but with the addition of less energy used and safety from predators.

Blackfoot February Fly Fishing

When you go to the river in summer, you see the places that are “prime”, and many places that are marginal. While marginal covers a LOT of water- shallows, stagnant, too deep, too fast- winter anglers are looking for slower, darker and less fishy looking areas. Think about the deeper drop farther below a riffle, or the very inside or outside of a seam, where the water is quite slow. If you fish those places in the summer, you tend to take tiddlers- fish that require much less food to survive, simply because their size doesn’t need as many calories to sustain them. Remember these spots!

We’ve been talking about winter trout as if they don’t eat. That’s not correct, not by a longshot. They’re still eating, and regularly, just not where you think they are. They’ve moved to the marginal water for the winter. All those spots that kicked out 4-6 inch fish now hold larger fish, looking for the less strenuous lifestyle offered by water that’s slow, cold and deeper than usual. The summer margins are now the go-to spots for nymphing.

Timing and conditions differ for winter nymphing as well. We know in the heat of the summer, it’s better to fish the edges of the day. Dawn and dusk offer the fish a more comfortable water temperature, and they get more active. It’s the direct opposite in cold weather. Get out in the “heat” of the day. Mid afternoon is prime time when the temperature drops. Sunlight is also your friend in winter. Just as the sun makes you feel warmer in winter, it does the same for the trout. Sun on the water will quicken their metabolism, getting trout more active in the water. Counterintuitive to the summer fisherman, but important in winter.

When it comes to rigging for winter nymphing, it’s a double nymph rig all the way. However you choose to rig- drop shot, double tungsten jigs, wire worm or lead weight- there is no indicator dry in the winter. You’re going down to where the fish are, and staying there. Try and use as small an indicator as you can, and as unobtrusive as it can be. A small Thing-A-Ma-Bobber or Air-Lock is the way to go. The New Zealand wool or other natural indicators are not as effective on really cold days- they freeze on the cast! Drop your fly a bit deeper than you’re comfortable with. The fish are on the bottom, and not roaming very far for food. You need to get to them- they’re not coming to you.

When it comes to choosing winter nymphs, we wish we could say only these bugs worked. It would help sales in a slow time of year! But pretty much any nymph that worked in the summer will work in the winter, and at pretty much any time. There are no winter hatches in Missoula, other than midges, and the trout are seeing a wide variety of nymphs and pupa go by. Because there aren’t enough insects of one type to grab the trout’s focus, they will eat most anything that goes by. Provided it’s close enough to eat, presented properly and they don’t need to expend too much energy.

Early winter nymphing, found in November and December, will sometimes benefit from a smaller nymph. Due to nymphal life cycles, the early winter nymphs are smaller than the later winter nymphs. As an example, a PMD nymph in November may only be 4mm long- by February it will be 6-7 mm long. Trout are trout- you still have to be close to the size of the food form to entice them into eating.

Not expending too much energy to eat is critical. The trout’s metabolism is down, energy is down, motivation is down. They’re not going to move 4 feet to take a Pat’s RubberLegs, even though it’s a big meal. The fly needs to drift very close to the trout before they’ll eat. Which changes the strategy of the winter nympher.

One of the true joys of winter nymphing is the solitude it provides. River access parking lots that are full in July are now empty. You have your pick of the river most of the time. Cold weather fishing is not the time to go prospecting for trout. The smart winter fisherman goes right to the spot he wants to fish and stays there.

Unless you’re a world class Euronympher, there will be subtle variations in each cast you make. It looks like your flies should be doing the same thing, but underwater they’re not. In summer, these differences aren’t so pronounced, as the trout will range farther to take in food. Now, you have to bang them on the nose to get them to eat. For most anglers, the chance you hit the first cast perfectly is not great. But you know the fish are here. So keep casting!

Fly Fishing Bitterroot River

Winter fishermen go to Prime Position A, and stay there a while. They make sure to throw enough casts to cover all the fish there. Understanding that each cast is different, and just because no trout ate the last one, doesn’t mean they won’t eat the next one. Trout aren’t moving to your fly- you need to move your fly to the trout, and that can take some time to dial in. That’s why we recommend a small indicator. It creates less disturbance on the water. The indicator doesn’t have to be a huge beacon of color in the winter- you’re working slower water where any indicator is easily seen.

This doesn’t mean you grow roots and stand in one place. Move your feet, vary the drift. Find out how the trout want the fly delivered to them. And be sensible. If you’ve fished a spot for 30-45 minutes without success, it’s time to move on. Go find another place that looks winter fishy, and cast there. If you’re new to winter nymphing, it’s going to take a bit to find the spots trout have migrated to. When you’re exploring winter nymphing, move a bit more till you find the fish.

Winter nymphing also has its own set of safety issues that need to be addressed. Cold and water don’t mix. Of course you need to dress warmly, layers, etc. We’re Montanans, we know that! But basic safety precautions need to be taken. Never walk on ice that’s formed over a river. Have waterproof matches or a dry bag with a lighter and some firestarting stuff. Put dry clothes in the car. If you take a header in August, you’re a point of entertainment to your friends. If you fall in the river in December, you have a lot more issues to contend with. Safe wading practices are key. Being ready to get yourself warm if you do fall in is critical. Rubber soled boots are the only way to go in the winter. Felt soles, once wet, will pick up snow with every step, putting you in high heels after 50 yards. Bootfoot waders are much less cold than stockingfoot waders. If you have them, use them.

Winter nymphing offers the angler some serious peace and quiet on the water. It can also be very effective, and a great way to spend a day outdoors when the opportunity arises. The best days to head out are when the temps will be above 35. Dress warmly, take precautions, and take a net. You’re going to need it all for winter nymphing!

Flies and Fly Tying

Fly Tying – Take Your Season Indoors

by MAngler

Lets start by saying the Missoulian Angler is at the far right on the bell curve. If left is the very casual angler, center is Missoula’s standard out fly fishing 50 days a year, we live on the far right. And if you bell curved the far right, we’d STILL be far right!

All our employees tie flies. Most have been professional tyers, and we all tie flies for the shop.

We started the same way. Someone told us we might be able to save money by tying flies (HA!) or there was a purer joy in catching fish on a fly you tied yourself (true). Now, we tie because we don’t know any other way.

It’s been said that every fly you tie is a little bit of hope for the season. Every wrap of thread is a plan for the next time you hit the water. And let’s not make any bones about it- you think you can build a better mousetrap! As you bend the materials onto the hook, you can’t help but wonder if THIS is the fly that will turn your season around. That’s what fly tying is about . . .

But it doesn’t happen over night, and there’s the rub. Customers come in all the time and say, “I want to tie the Sex Dungeon and the Royal Wulff. Those are my two favorite flies and I’m always out of them.” We always respond with tying flies is great, but you may need to set your sights a bit lower to start. How about a Pheasant Tail Jig and a Pat’s Rubberlegs? Sometimes it’s yes, and sometimes it’s no.

Because fly tying isn’t an art- it’s a hand skill, like hitting a baseball or knitting a sweater. For the same reason you don’t learn to hit facing major league pitching, or start knitting with a multi color, zipper back pant suit, you have to start easy in fly tying. Choose two simple patterns, and start to tie them, like a Pheasant Tail Jig and a Pat’s Rubberlegs! You’ll need tools for tying flies, a place to tie, and the time to spend behind the vise.

And here’s what you get when you start to tie flies. Complaints from your significant other that there’s fuzz all over the house. A bunch of flies that look nothing like the picture on Instagram. Small punctures on the ends of your fingers where the hook inexplicably ended up. A much more varied and colorful way to express yourself when the thread breaks for the 3rd time on one fly. You’ll be in closer contact with your fly fishing buddies, all asking you for “just a couple” of your best bugs. You wonder what possessed you to even start this silly habit.

Until you start to see the other side of the coin. It’s more subtle and far reaching, and it doesn’t come immediately. The moment you tie your first Pheasant Tail, you have to think about proportions. The Abdomen is 60% of the body- the Thorax is 40%. Next thing you know, you find out all mayflies have the same proportions, they just vary in size. Pretty soon, you’re looking under rocks and seeing that the flies you’ve been tying aren’t exactly the right color, so you modify that. Your bugs start to look better to the fish.

All of sudden, the shucks on the side of the river begin to mean more. You’re looking at size and shape, and now comparing it to what you’re making. You begin to make changes to your flies, and they begin to work better.

A grasshopper flies by, and it’s no longer just a hopper. You start to notice the hoppers are different sizes. Some have bright red legs, some don’t. They vary in color, and even a bit in shape. Some have very prominent legs, some are smaller. All this goes into the hopper (get it?!?!) and the next time you’re at the bench, you start to make adjustments to your patterns. They start to look more like a hopper you see on the water, not what others think a hopper should look like. You begin to scope the internet, looking at hopper patterns. You see things you like, you see things you don’t like. You begin to steal like an artist!! You take a body from one hopper and the wings from another. Legs from a third and a head from a fourth. You’re observing things as you’ve never done, and now you’re mixing and matching, learning more every time about what a hopper is and isn’t to a fish. Not all will work, but with every modification, you get closer to a hopper that works for you, that you have confidence in.

That’s the real secret about fly tying. Not that you’ll have flies when you need them, not that they’re better tied and more durable. The real secret of fly tying is now you know so much more. You’re looking at the naturals with a brand new and critical eye. They’re no longer random bugs. You’re no longer reading a fishing report and wondering what it all really means. Without knowing it, you’re learning about insect life cycles, and how and where trout interact with them. You’re seeing how the river works- how water, insects and trout all come together. Wait till you find out about clingers, crawlers and burrowers. All of a sudden, a riffle makes more sense. It’s the breeding ground for insects. No wonder trout stack up in there. You’re a better angler.

All because you took your fly fishing indoors. The moment you set up the vise for the first time, and started bending thread to hook, you’re taking giant steps to be ahead of the curve. Soon, you’ll be looking back and wondering how did I ever catch a trout? I had no real clue what was going on on the river! If you really get the bug (get it?!?!) you’re going to expand your pattern listing. You’re going to take some chances with new and different flies- always with the knowledge you’ve earned, knowing they have a very good chance of working. You’re a smarter angler, you’ve traveled further right on the bell curve.

It’s all about success on the water. At the Missoulian Angler, we learn as much from our customers as they learn from us. A fisheries biologist told us that when minnows hatch, they have no air in their swim bladder. They can’t swim until they surface and take in air. Before that time, they just sort of drift with the current. You have a Eureka moment. You have had nymphs taken as if they were a streamer. This explains it! The trout think it’s a minnow unable to swim. We all tied up some very thin, very small minnow imitations to be used under an indicator. They crush fish when the minnows are hatching. We learned more, and that made us more effective anglers.

Learning never stops on the water. It never stops at the vise either. Not just tying techniques and skill level, but that knowledge that seeps in while concentrating of fly fishing. Everything gets ratcheted up just a bit more, and keeps going. You find yourself stepping into the water with more confidence and greater skill. It’s an upward spiral that never really stops. We tell you that from our combined 100+ years of fly tying experience in the shop.

As the weather changes, and opportunities on the water get fewer and farther between, it might be a good time to think about taking your fly fishing indoors. You’ll thank us next year!

Fly Fishing Hot Topics

Best Flies For October Fishing In Montana

by MAngler

How can you tell a Halloween costume has been designed in Montana? It has snow pants! That’s the way October fly fishing in Missoula is going to end. But it sure doesn’t start that way! The Fishing and hatches can be incredible. Let’s take a look at some of the best flies for Montana in October.

October Caddis

October’s most well known bug is the October Caddis. Makes sense, right? This is a big caddis, size 8-10, and very difficult to miss on the water. As with so many other fall flies, like the Hecuba, it’s orange in color, and is best imitated with an Orange Elk Hair Caddis or an Orange Stimulator.  If you don’t have an October Caddis with you, a large Brindle Chute will work as well. If you see one October Caddis on the water, tie one on. The fish will be looking for them, even if there’s not a full-blown hatch. It’s a bit like Hopper fishing- throw to the likely water and be ready for the rise!

The more productive way to fish the October Caddis is subsurface, because it’s rare to come across a full hatch of these bugs. The big pupa are moving, and easy meals for trout looking to fatten up for the winter. The Bird of Prey, Red Fox Squirrel Nymph and the Orange Mop Fly are all very effective as a dropper or on a double nymph rig. Big and orange is the key to getting the trout’s attention. We recommend fluorocarbon leader when fall nymphing- the water is low and clear.

Orange Elk Hair Caddis

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Orange Mop Fly

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Mayflies

You have the chance of running into three or four different mayfly hatches in the month of October- Tricos, Hecubas, Blue Winged Olives and Mahoganies. The tricos are waning, but on warm, sunny days you will often find a spinner fall in the early afternoon. This can be a bit tricky, as the BWO’s will often be hatching at the same time. If you’ve made good presentations to a fish with a Blue Wing, and you’re not getting any eats, try Ron’s Trico Spinnner or a Hi-Viz Trico Spinner. It’s not fool proof, but it’s a good option if the BWO isn’t working.

Ron’s Trico Spinner

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Hi-Viz Trico Spinner

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The BWO is a very strong hatch in October, especially on the colder, cloudy days. BWO’s are not a single species- there are many types of Baetis that hatch at this time. Luckily, they are all imitated by the same bugs. On the surface, be ready with a Tilt Wing BWO, Split Flag BWO or a Swishers Clumpa. These three flies cover adults, emergers and cripples quite well. The BWO is a tiny fly in October, and is best imitated with an 18 or 20, so have a light leader ready. There is also a BWO coming off in October that is very gray in color, so have a few small Parachute Adams or Purple Hazes in your kit to cover that hatch.

Split Flag BWO

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Tilt Wing BWO

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If you choose to go subsurface for the BWO’s, have some SR Bullet Jigs in Olive to get deep. If the fish are near the surface, but not taking the insects off the surface, and unweighted Pheasant Tail is an excellent pattern for “smutting” fish. Drop it about 4’ off a dry fly (don’t worry if the dry sinks, it’s just an indicator at this point) and send it over the fish. The short dropper length will keep it near the surface, but not on the surface- just where the fish are taking the emerger.

The Mahogany is also a very strong hatch for fly fishing Missoula in October. Once established, they come off like clockwork starting at 1:00 in the afternoon, and will continue until the water temps get too cold. The Mahogany Thorax is very good for this hatch, as is the Tiltwing Mahogany. If you’re going subsurface, a Caramel Specialist Jig or Solitude Pheasant Tail jig will take fish all day.

Mahogany Thorax

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Tilt Wing Mahogany

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The Mahogany’s will hatch in sun or clouds, though of course cloudy days are better. Again, the water is low and clear, so a longer, finer leader is called for. Think about some TroutHunter tippet in half sizes (4.5X, 5.5X) to get a little more stealth and a better drift. The Mahoganies are a size 14 at the beginning of the hatch, but as October ends, they will be as small as a 16, so have those sizes with you in nymphs and dries when you hit the water.

There’s an off chance you’ll see a Hecuba hatch as long as temps stay mild. You won’t miss it if it comes off, as the bugs are about a size 8! Have a Hecuba Cripple or a Brindle Chute with you, but don’t pin your hopes on this hatch- it can be very unpredictable. It’s much more apt to occur earlier in October, so have the flies with you, but don’t expect much.

Hecuba Cripple

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Brindle Chute

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Hopper/Dropper

The hoppers are still a bit of a presence in October, but no where near as important as they were in late August and September. The cold nights and rainy October weather is taking its toll on the hopper population, but if it gets hot and sunny enough that you hear them buzzing on the shore, then they’re in play for the fish! As always, a bit of a breeze helps the hopper fishing, but if you decide to run a hopper, drop an SR Bullet Olive or a Solitude Pheasant Tail jig off the back to make yourself a more effective angler.

Pav’s Yellowstoner Hopper

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Pheasant Tail Jig

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Streamers

Fly fishing Missoula in October can be one of the best times for streamers all year. The cold nights and shorter days tell the trout winter is coming, and it’s time to get some calories inside for the long winter months. While this blog writer tends to favor smaller streamers in fall like the Baby Swimcoach, due to the fact I’m heading out to match hatches, and need streamers that can be thrown on a 4-5 weight rod. In October, you can plan an entire day around streamer fishing.

The Blackfoot River is the first river to “turn off” due to the colder weather. It’s our northernmost river, and comes from the high mountains. It will get cold fast. But if you get out there in the first couple weeks of October, the streamer fishing can be extremely productive. Run the big flies like the Sex Dungeon or Mongrel Meat. Bang the banks, and start them as shallow as you dare. The fish are piled up behind boulders and off shelves, and are looking for a big meal before winter.

Rock Creek also has excellent streamer fishing in October. A Sparkle Minnow Sculpin is still a great producer up there at this time of year. Be ready for strikes in the middle of the river, where the bigger fish are. A wading staff is not remiss on Rock Creek at this point- those rocks can get very slippery this time of year, and if you’re trying to cover a lot of water with a streamer, good footing is paramount.

Baby Swimcoach

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Sparkle Minnow

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Final Thoughts

October is a month of big weather changes in Missoula. It starts off like the end of summer, and ends up like the beginning of winter. This means being prepared for the weather when you go to the water. Extra layers and a raincoat are critical. Put a spare set of clothes in the car, and leave them there. If you fall in in August, you’re just annoyed. If you fall kin on a cold, rainy day in October, it can turn into more of a problem. Having dry clothes to change into can be a game changer if the weather is cold and you’re soaking wet.

October in Missoula can be some of the best and most peaceful fishing of the year. The cold nights are slowing things down in the morning, so showing up about 9:30 is not a problem. And by 5:00, when the day starts to get chilly, it’s OK to head home to a warm dinner and a cold beverage! We like to call it Gentleman’s Fishing. No longer do you need to be on the water at dawn, and stay until after nightfall. The fishing will be best in the heat of the day, so why work the edges. Sleep in, enjoy, and get out when the day is nice. You’ll find it easy and more productive, which is what October fly fishing in Missoula is all about. 

Missoula Montana Guided Fly Fishing Trip

Come enjoy a day on the river with Missoula’s best fly fishing guides. We float the Bitterroot River, Blackfoot River and the Clark Fork River. All gear, lunch and transportation provided.

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Montana Guided Fly Fishing Float Trip
Bitterroot River Fall Fly Fishing
Flies and Fly Tying

Best Flies For September Fishing In Montana

by MAngler

September fly fishing in Missoula is arguably the best time of year. The water is low, reaching prime temps with longer, cooler nights with the most comfortable wading of the year. The bugs are diverse in size, ranging from size 6 hoppers to size 22 Blue Winged Olives. Subsurface, the nymphing is excellent with so much insect activity, while the streamer fishing comes on as September progresses. It doesn’t matter what type of fly fishing you’re looking for, if you’re in Missoula in September, you’re going to find it. Lets take a look at some of the best flies for September fly fishing in Montana.

Hoppers

September starts with the same flies as you’ve been using since August 10th. The grasshoppers have established, with fish on the prowl looking for a big, easy meal. Missoula hopper fishing starts in late July and depending on weather, may last into November! That’s over 3 months of fish seeing naturals, and their imitations. September is a good time to do a little experimenting with different hopper variations. We carry Pav’s Hopper in 5 different colors, and variations on the Morrish Hopper in 4 different colors. We have gray hoppers, blue hoppers and many pink ones. Why do they work? No idea, but they do. We watch Missoula’s best fly fishing guides shop every morning, and in September they will be looking for full fly bins. The theory is no one is buying them, so the fish haven’t seen too many. Think about expanding your hopper game in September to show the trout

something new and different.

Morrish Hopper

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Henneberry Hopper

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Tricos

The same can be said for Tricos. In early September, you can almost set your watch by the trico hatch. The fish have been looking at naturals for almost a month, and they can get a bit snotty at this time of year. Think about some Trout Hunter tippet in 5.5X. Trout Hunter tippet is much softer than Rio, and allows your bug to float more naturally. The half sizes of tippet provide more stealth without sacrificing as much strength. Move to trico cripples and emergers, like the Sprout or the Quigley Cluster Midge. Ron’s Trico Spinner will produce consistently as well, though by this time of year he is way tired of tying them! Be ready to drop down to a size 20 as well, so make sure you’ve got your readers when you hit the water.

Ron’s Trico Spinner

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Cluster Midge

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Blue WInged Olives

We’re all waiting for the magic moment in September- the first real rains of fall. If we’re lucky, the rain comes in about September 10th, and the entire complexion of fly fishing in Missoula changes. The weather change brings cooler temps and some clouds. The tricos trade out for Blue Winged Olives. Same size- different color. The week after the rains will prove to any angler that fish can see color! If you fish a trico through a BWO hatch or vice versa, you’re not going to be anywhere near as successful as you could be. Look for the classic figure 8 of a trico spinner cloud above the water, or get your nose close to the water and check what’s floating by. It makes a big difference!

As the BWO’s start, the basic patterns will work. A simple Parachute BWO or Comparadun will take fish consistently at the start of the hatch. But as the BWO’s extend through September, growing in numbers, the fish get a lot more selective. The Last Chance Cripple or Quigley Split Flag Cripple will start to be more effective for fussy trout. Again, shift down with your tippet size to give your fly the best chance at a drag free drift. Watch rise forms very carefully when BWO’s are on the water. Many fish focus on emerging nymphs, and while you’ll see concentric “rise” rings, it’s the fish’s back that breaks the surface, not the mouth. Drop an unweighted Size 18 Pheasant Tail about 4 inches off the back of your dry and watch your catch rate skyrocket.

Split Flag BWO

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BWO Comparadun

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Mahoganies

In the middle of the month, the Mahoganies start to make their annual appearance. This size 14 mayfly is tough to miss on a Fall afternoon, and provides a steady hatch for the next 3 weeks. The Parachute Pheasant Tail, Purple Haze or Brindle Chute all in size 14-16 are excellent choices at this time, with the Brindle Chute out performing most other flies when the Mahoganies are on, especially on the Bitterroot River where it was invented. Again, as the hatch progresses, start to get a bit more technical with your flies. Bring some Last Chance Cripples or Sparkle Duns when the fish are ignoring your standard fare.

Parachute Pheasant Tail

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Brindle Chute

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October Caddis

At the end of the month, you can start looking for the October caddis to appear. If you think you can’t miss the Mahoganies, you REALLY can’t miss the October Caddis. This size 8-10 orange caddis is a favorite of fish on the Blackfoot River, Bitterroot River, Rock Creek and the Clark Fork River. If you see one, tie one on. The fish are looking for them and will eat even when the naturals aren’t strong. Both the Orange Elk Hair Caddis and the Orange Goddard Caddis will float a small dropper as well, so make sure to utilize that option as well. The Birds of Prey October Caddis Pupa is deadly subsurface, and if you’re not getting the action you’re looking for on top, get down with the pupa to bring your fish count up.

Orange Elk Hair Caddis

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Bird Of Prey

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Nymphs

With all the hatches across Missoula’s rivers, the nymphing can be off the hook! With lower water levels the droppers are shorter and easier to control, especially on the Bitterroot River and Rock Creek. Don’t be afraid to go small. Early in September, the SR Bullet Black in a size 18 is a great trico nymph. When the weather changes the rivers to BWO’s, switch to an SR Bullet Olive and keep raking in the fish. A Pheasant Tail Jig will outperform most anything for the Mahogany nymph, and don’t forget the October Caddis Pupa. It should be said again, if fish aren’t eating on the surface, they’re eating underneath- dry flies get the ink, nymphs get the fish. Especially at the end of the month, when the cold weather tells the fish winter is coming, and they need to eat.

Pheasant Tail Jig

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SR Bullet Olive

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Streamers

The same weather that moves trout to nymph hard also moves fish to eat streamers. When the days start to get cooler and shorter, a great way to start the day is working a small to midsize streamer around the likely areas. If your streamer choice is comfortable to cast on a 5-6 weight, it’s proabably the correct size. This is conventional wisdom, but there are exceptions. In the big water of the lower Clark Fork River and the lower Blackfoot River (which is now bereft of tubers due to the cold) a big streamer run deep will still work its magic. If you’re a streamer-maniac, the last week of September can be prime time, moving bigger fish looking to take in a few calories before the real weather gets here. Pick your spots to run the Mongrel Meat or Sex Dungeons, or go smaller with a Baby Gonga or Dirty Hippie.

Dirty Hippie

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Baby Gonga

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Final Thoughts

Whatever you’re looking for when you head to the water, September fly fishing in Missoula has the answer. Whether you want technical dry fly fishing, prospecting with dries, focused Euronymphing, Hopper/dropper or streamer action, somewhere on Missoula’s diverse rivers you’re going to find it. The weather is relatively mild, the wading is easy, the rivers are at good flows and better temps, and you can expect good days on the water. If you live here, carve out some time to fish during some of the year’s best fly fishing in Missoula. If you’re traveling from out of town, get ready to see some of the best fly fishing Missoula has to offer. We’ll see you in the shop, or hear from you online! 

Missoula Montana Guided Fly Fishing Trip

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Fly Fishing Hot Topics

Technical Dry Fly Fishing

by MAngler

. . . . .to fish fine and far off is the first and principal rule for trout angling

                                                                           Charles Cotton  1676

Fishermen were not always so adept at distance casting . . . . they were great skulkers and sneakers.

                                                                           M.R. Montgomery  (from Hooked by Raye Carrington)

Before we go all tech, lets get some basics under our belt. There’s no question that being further away will spook fewer trout. In direct contrast, the longer a cast, the less accuracy and control we have. The art of dry fly angling is finding the happy medium between not spooking the fish, yet having the control and accuracy to place our fly where we need it in a lifelike manner. This comes from practice. You’re going to surprise a few fish as you learn how to get close. We’ve gotten very adept at judging trout size by the V-wake it makes scooting to safety! Like all dry fly fishing, this is the first conundrum to solve. How far is fine, how close is accurate!

You’ve found a pod of fish, 25 strong, and they’re rising! Yay. It’s Ticos and you recognize that! Yay! Yay! And you knot on your favorite Trico and chuck it out there! Boo! Boo! Chuck it and chance it RARELY gets it done! Spend a minute, watch the rise forms. Check out the path the naturals are taking to get a feel for the currents. PICK A FISH. CAST TO THAT FISH. Focus on what you’re doing, and make the first cast count. Chuck and chance has the potential to spook a lot of fish, and put down the pod. Pick a fish on the edge of the pod, and pick that one off first. Then fish your way into the interior of the pod. Think before the excitement takes you.

One more thought on pods of fish. After you’ve been fishing a pod for a bit, you’re going to figure out the fish are pretty focused on one hatch stage. Good on you if you’ve figured it out! But if you haven’t, paying attention to the rise forms will be most important. Look for new entrants into the pod- a rise where there wasn’t one 30 seconds ago. Cast to that fish immediately. That fish has just arrived, and hasn’t had time to get focused on anything too specific. You have a good chance of taking the newcomer before it gets too wrapped up in what all the other fish are focused on.

You’ve made a bunch of casts that you thought were good, but nothing’s taken your fly. The casts weren’t as good as you thought- that’s what the trout have told you! Move your feet. Find a different place to stand. Change your angle and delivery. There is NO SUCH THING as a little drag when it comes to fishing, and even if you can’t see it, the fish can. It’s called micro drag, and it’s a killer. Changing your position will change the drift. Maybe it’s better. If it’s not, move again until you find the place where you can get a drag free drift. You are not a tree- you have feet. Use them!

Sometimes you find yourself in a position where you need a long cast, maybe even 50’. Often there’s some breeze, or other detriments to casting. It’s tough to power out a long cast and have the fly land with slack line. George Harvey designed a leader for this very situation. To build a good replica of this leader, start with a 7.5’ 2X leader. Knot on about 2-3’ of 3X tippet, and then add 3’ of 5X tippet (Adjust tippet and midsection sizes to suit your fly size). What this provides is an energy sink in the middle of your leader. So no matter how much energy you put into your cast to straighten the line, the leader will NOT transfer that energy to the tippet. So your fly, even at a distance, will land with some slack in the tippet, providing a drag free drift at the end of a long cast. You may have to fiddle with tippet and midsection lengths- it’s worth it to get it right and get the drag-free drift.

Where you stand in relation to the fish makes a lot of difference in your presentation. If you’re standing directly below a rising fish, you will be dealing with much less current on your line. It’s easier to control the drag from that position, but easier to line the fish. As you move to a position 90 degrees from the fish, you have greatly lessened the chance of lining the fish, but added so many additional currents you have to fight and adjust to for that drag free drift. Find your happy spot, where you can get to your chosen fish with a minimum of drag without lining the fish, and go from there. Every time you move your feet, you change the effects of the current on your fly. Watch your fly very carefully to see if it’s dragging. If the fish aren’t eating it, it’s probably dragging!

The crafty dry fly angler will sometimes move above the fish, and go for the downstream delivery. This has it’s own set of problems, not least that you’re so much more in the line of sight. The big advantage is the fly gets to the fish before the leader, providing a more lifelike presentation. It also gives you first shot at the fish at the top of the pod, which is often the largest. Again, drag control is paramount. Cast just above your targeted fish, and “check” (stop it somewhat suddenly, above the surface) the cast so it lands with some slack. Allow the fly to float over your intended fish. If it eats, classic angling has you say, “God Save The Queen” before striking. This allows the fly to enter the fishes mouth before striking, and lets the hook actually hook something! When fishing from below or the side, the hook is dragged through the mouth, and hooks as it goes by. From above, the fly will just slide out if you strike too quickly.

If you’re having trouble with upstream presentation accuracy, use the Montana mend. This drives Easterners crazy, but it really works. Cast the fly about 8’ beyond the fish, and then swing your rod upstream, pointed at the horizon or slightly above. When the fly is in line to float in the path you want, quickly lower the rod tip. You may need to add a mend as well.  If the fish doesn’t eat, patience is the name of the game. If you rip the fly off the water to cast again, you stand a good chance of spooking a lot of fish. Let the cast drift out of the pod, as you control the swing with your rod tip. When it’s clear of the risers, then gently, gently start the process again.

You make all these adjustments because you don’t just need a drag free drift, you need an accurate drag free drift. Trout have established feeding lanes, and they’re not going to leave them to provide you with a bit of sport. The feeding lanes will vary by the size of the bug. The green drake, with it’s massive mayfly size, is worth ranging a bit left or right to eat, as the caloric return is worth the extra expenditure of energy. But if you’re fishing tricos, a trout’s feeding lane may be 4” wide. You need to get your fly in the lane before the fish will eat it. With no drag. So accuracy counts. Which is why it often pays to be a great skulker and sneaker!

Drag-free drift. So easy to write, so difficult to achieve! We all talk about mending, but for the wading angler, mending can be difficult. Moving the line on the water near feeding fish can create panic, and ruin the fishing. Knowing the casts that can provide an aerial mend (a mend created in the air prior to the line hitting the water) can be invaluable in dry fly presentation. While many casts exist to provide that, we find you really only need two for 90% of your dry fly situations. The reach cast, which can be done to the left or the right, will place the line on the water either above or below its normal landing spot, providing a mend before the cast has landed. This will take some practice, as you’re working with more line, and the physical reach definitely affects your accuracy.

The other cast we use a lot is the steeple, or puddle cast. Stretch out more line than you need, and throw your cast high above the fish. The cast will straighten, and then fall in a heap above the fish. Yes, wind will really affect how this cast lands. Make too much slack, and the fish might eat and you won’t be able to set the hook. But at least the fish ate, and that’s a start! It’s all about the drift!

We’re saying that again, it’s all about the drift. From the moment you see the first fish rise, you’re on top of your game. Choose your fish, and move your feet to get the correct drift. Move again if it’s not working. Vary your presentation, and use the different casts to get a longer and better drift. Adjust your leader as needed, again to give the fly a drag free drift. Yes, it’s good to read this stuff, and have the intellectual knowledge to hit the stream. Knowing some solutions will really help when the angling gets tricky.

However, there’s nothing like being on water, and  actually practicing these things to make you better. There will be some bumps in the road, no doubt. Which are made much more aggravating, as it looks like every rising fish is giving your fly the fin as it floats (drags!) by. That can scramble your brain! Sometimes, in the heat of the moment, when the fish are ignoring your offerings while rising right next door, it pays to take five. Step back to the bank, or turn so you can’t see the action. Reassess, and pretend it’s happening to your buddy. What would you tell them to do? Chances are the same advice will work for you, if you just take the time to think it through.  Chuck it and Chance it? That’s for the other schlubs. You’re about to start making the smart moves to make you a better dry fly angler.

Flies and Fly Tying

Insect Biomass

by MAngler

Let’s start out with a few definitions. Insect biomass, for our purposes, is defined as the weight of all insects in a river at any specific time. Carrying capacity is defined as the maximum amount of life that can be sustained in a river system during the harshest conditions. Carrying capacity is always the nadir of population, as the harsh environment removes those less able to adapt to the conditions. That’s enough to be getting on with- more will be forthcoming.

If you look at the graph, there are two pieces of information being tracked. One is the fluctuating aquatic insect population over the course of a year in a river. Overlaid on that is a record of the fluctuating insect biomass over the course of a year in a river. These two pieces of information are critical to understanding the feeding habits of trout in a river.

Let’s follow the line created by the insect biomass in a river. You’ll notice it’s rising in January, and continuing through mid-March, when the insect biomass in the river is at it’s highest. Following the insect population line, you’ll see the insect population in the river is at it’s lowest. Reasoned out, the biomass has peaked because insects have been growing since they hatched, providing more biomass to the river. The insect population is correspondingly low. Few insects are added to the population over the winter, and natural selection and predation has brought the insect population to its lowest point.

And then the first hatches of spring occur. BWO’s, March Browns and Skwalas. As the insects leave the water to reproduce, biomass is depleted. Correspondingly, as the eggs from the spring insects hatch, the insect population begins to rise. However, these new insects are so small, they add little to the biomass of the river, only the population.

As you follow the two informational lines, they diverge until insect populations are at their highest in mid July. Which makes sense, as the bulk of the insects have emerged, and the corresponding eggs have hatched, pushing the population to its zenith. But these newly hatched insects are microscopic, with minimal biomass. By the end of July, the insect biomass in a river is at its lowest point.

These are some of the ramifications of this information. Ever wonder why winter nymphing is so good? With maximum biomass, the trout have access to the most food they will see all year. Jump to July, and the low biomass means food is at its minimum. Combine minimum biomass with the warmer water temps, and you’ve now established the carrying capacity for a river. These are the harshest conditions a river fish faces, and not all fish will survive these critical conditions.

The slash of a fish to a hopper, big fish rising to tiny tricos, the effectiveness of ants and beetles. Behaviors explained by this graph. With such a paucity of food in the river in July and August, fish are willing to be a bit less selective in their eating habits, and range a little farther from feeding lanes to take available food. When a sparkly purple and black thing floats over their heads, there’s a better chance the trout will eat it, because they’re hungrier now than they were in June.

As the natural cycle of insect growth moves on, the biomass of the river begins to recover in late August. Water temperatures drop in September, and the harshest period of the year has passed. The carrying capacity has been established for another year. The insect population will continue to fall, while the biomass rises until we hit March again, and the cycle starts again.

Few anglers use a nymph in a size 18 or 20. Yet this graph clearly shows there are smaller nymphs available throughout the year. As anglers, we get so focused on hatches that we sometimes forget to mimic the most abundant food form, which is small nymphs. The larger trout may not be exactly where you think they should be to take the “prevalent” insect. They may be in a prime location for size 20 nymphs, hoovering up the most abundant food source in the river. Another thought- because many stoneflies are on a two or three year life cycle, stonefly nymphs are always available to the trout. The rubberlegs we all fish so heavily in late spring is still just as effective in the summer and fall, because of the 365 presence of stonefly nymphs.

An understanding of the cycles of food sources in a river can help us understand some fish feeding behavior, and help explain why you can catch huge trout on tiny nymphs. It also may explain the Royal Wulff and Hippie Stomper’s success. Not a truly natural color or shape, but when the fish are hungry, those flies look enough like food to get eaten. Armed with a little knowledge, you may find your catch rate going up in all seasons as you match your tactics to the food source.